Down Under, Down Under

   by Paul Prater

 So we had finally made it! The final qualification dives and tests at Brixham and the prestigious title of 'Club Diver' to our names! Next, a few days rest, a 27 hour flight, a short video of how stupid we all are to let airlines cram us into a small space and how dangerous it can be, and the prospect of some great diving and the general vastness of the Australian wilderness.

4 of us are travelling together. Suzanne and myself, flying the BSAC flag, and Mick and Jo who had just completed a PADI advanced open water course.

It’s 7.00 am Sydney, the plane door opens and after a few minutes, we are away, sun warmth...wait a minute! It’s bloody cold! And it’s cloudy! Last time I trust the pictures in the brochure!

After faffing around for an hour or so, and being stopped for carrying a boiled sweet with intent to biologically endanger the entire arable crop system of the southern hemisphere, we arrive at our hotel in Darling Harbour. The place looks great shops, bars, restaurants, water, (quite essential for a harbour I suppose) lets get checked in, dump the cases and get out there, places to see, things to do, etc..etc...!!

“Sorry Madam...I'm afraid your room has not been vacated yet, as soon as it is I will let you know”, is the story given by Suzanne when she reports back. OK fair enough it's only 8.30 in the morning. Let’s leave the cases with the concierge, get some food and do some confirming of our days diving in Sydney.

"Hi there, can I speak to Don please?"

"G'Day mate you must be Paul," (Wow I thought, Aussies are telepathic as well as good at cricket. After being awake for 30+ hours what can you expect?) "Just arrived then?"

"Yes, How did you know it was me?" (Continuing my ignorance.)

"Only pom we expect today. But don't worry we don’t hold anything against you guys! You're gonna get some great dives in the day after tomorrow, we have two planned, one in Botany Bay to check out the Leafy Sea Dragon and a dive with sharks later on after some tucker. That will be out in the ocean."

"Sounds great Don."

"I will pick you up at reception at 9.30am No worries."

OK Guys diving confirmed lets do Sydney!! (Ooo Err)

Sydney orientation and the need for Pro-Plus

 A freebie trip and meal to do round Sydney Harbour by boat, just to acquaint ourselves with the wonders of the place.

 “Ladies and gentlemen we are just passing under the famous Sydney Harbour Bridge, and over to the right a large statue titled “Crouching Nuns”, the guide explained while pointing to Sydney Opera House and giving a false laugh. A brief bout of muted laughter rippled round. After no sleep for over 35 hours I’m only mildly entertained by the joke but the place is stunning.  For me the thought of climbing to the top of Sydney Harbour Bridge, which was towering above us, in a few days time, was far more tantalising especially as neither Suzanne or I like heights. The day ended in an Italian restaurant with me falling asleep in my pasta, then going back to the hotel and getting checked in, ain’t jet lag fun.

We’re going to get in with these things!!

We awake early, the wind is up but the sun is out and we feel great, today we are going to see some of the city on a ½ day tour of the northern suburbs including Manly Beach. When we go there the wind was whipping up a sandstorm and the waves were rolling. But not 1 surfer doing their thing. (thought it was their national sport.) We didn’t have too long here so just time to check out the surf shops before heading back to the city. Time for a lunch and a glass of VB before making our own way to the famous Bondi beach.

Well it may be famous but its just looks like any other beach, and reminded me of a sunnier version of Margate, I had visions of picking up a ”Kiss Me Quick, Cobber” hat but I could not find one. (Also the water is warmer in Margate.) The surf shops were far more numerous than Manly and with the thought of the water temperature I decided to get a titanium lined neoprene shirt to wear under my suit tomorrow. (A good move I know now!!)

We bussed it back to Circular Quay and then got a water taxi back to Darling Harbour and to Sydney aquarium. We had been told that they had several large Grey Nurse Sharks. (These are also known as the Sand Tiger Shark) They are supposedly not aggressive but you would not want to be in the water with one with an injured fish tied to your fin, if you know what I mean, and this is what we will be seeing open water tomorrow.

“Oh My God!”

Was the general consensus of opinion when several of these 13ft sharp toothed  beasties floated over the all too thin plastic tunnel we were walking through. I can’t remember if the John Williams Classic film score was also being played in the background, if it wasn’t, it should have been.

“Who’s f**king idea was this?”

(** A word used throughout the diving world, I now know. Something to do with entering the water on time . e.g. Is he f**king ready yet?)

Fingers were being pointed, and they were pointing at me.

“Look, you all said that you wanted an exciting dive, this is Sydney after all!….Think it fits the bill quite well don’t you?”

The air of anticipation had changed to one of apprehension. But that soon passed with the sight of all the other fish we would be seeing too. And besides…they do this every day they must be competent.

When we got back to the hotel, there was a message from Don. I called him to find out what the problem was.

“It appears that there are 10ft swells predicted tomorrow out near the sharks so we will have to change the dive to something inside the harbour.” Don said, “Don’t worry though I am sure you will like the second site I have planned instead.”

Our hearts sank looks like we must have wanted to dive with the sharks after all (MAD FOOLS!) . Oh well we will make the most of it.

The Sydney Dives

Up early, 7:30am, must not break with BSAC tradition, mega breakfast! Don picked us up at 9.20 and he’s probably the most jovial man in Sydney. He was full of fascinating cultural information about this great city. For example did you know that there are places in the Kings Cross area of the city, especially during Mardi Gras, where you can get a Back, Crack and Sack Wax. Must be a surfing term I thought. However the film Pricilla Queen of the Desert was mentioned more than once in the same context and I don’t remember much surfing in that. Another great place that he pointed out was the ‘Tool Store’ it wasn’t a hardware store and I did not see any tools in the window so I don’t know what it does and don’t really want to find out. Anyway enough of the delights of Auzzie culture, the drive took about an hour to Dons Dive shop.

Our first dive was going to be in Botany Bay. At a place called The Monument in Kurnell. The place where Cook first landed was only yards away, how’s that for history.

Hopefully we will see the Leafy Sea Dragon, which is a strange adaptation of the sea horse, some rays as well as other interesting underwater life. When we got in the shop we selected our suits. We were then issued with 10 litre aluminium tanks and some Mares BCs. So we started fitting our regs and testing the set-up. All was fine apart from our Buddy BC hose that would not connect. (Thanks A..P.) After a quick change of hose we were set.  It was not going to be too deep, at about 12 metres. Water temperature was going to be a lively 18-20 degrees C  but with a full 5mm suit it wouldn’t be too cold. We loaded all our stuff into the truck Kylie was asked to pick up Dons suit, and after a short drive into Botany Bay National Park we stopped and kitted up. Kylie in all her wisdom had not checked the Suit she had picked up for Don. It turned out not to be his size, more aimed for a toddler. Don had to go to the shop again to pick up his suit. (Nice one Kylie)

Access to the entry point was difficult. An insanely steep flight of carved stone stairs first, then down onto what looked like an old iron fire escape ladder anchored to the rock. We could then walk along the slippery rocks, following a small path to our entry point. It would have been difficult for the S.B.S. to make their way down there but we were up for it.

We were going to enter the water  off the rocks and it was fairly choppy. After a briefing as to the nature of the dive, the exit point further down the beach and the usual points of ear clearing etc, we buddy checked noting the points about the unfamiliar BCs we were both wearing and were ready to go. Don was first to enter the water, then us and then Kylie, a PADI Divemaster, (And now we think a bit mad) following at the rear. We were all following the rhythm of the waves to help us out to about 10 or so metres off shore where we could re-group before descending

(And before you ask, no not ‘the’ Kylie, but it did make me laugh that the first woman we met in Australia was called Kylie, all we needed was a Bruce and a Sheila to have a full set. How cool would that be!)

Everyone was now in the water Suzanne, myself, Jo Don and Kylie settled on the bottom in about 4 metres but there was trouble with Mick. Don and Kylie surfaced to find out the problem. Kylie returned buddied with Jo and we set off, Kylie leading. Don and Mick would join us later perhaps.

There were some fairly strong surges making the seaweed on the bottom move in relation to the rocks. It made you feel as if you were in one of those rotating tunnel things you find in funfairs, very disconcerting. But we made steady progress to the home of the Weedy Sea Dragon. Viz was good too, at about 10 metres.

If you have not seen one of these very odd creatures, I can only describe it as an almost florescent golden horizontal sea horse, around a foot long. But some Aussie boy racer has got his hands on it. It’s been fitted with large spoilers on the back and side. All it needed was blacked out windows and a very loud stereo.

(For those of us at an age to remember Ivor the Engine, It was a golden version of Idris. Now that’s going back a few years.)

This little guy was also pregnant, and no doubt would soon be giving birth to smaller equally embellished underwater vehicles. Ain’t nature great!

We swam some more to see some rays and a few other types of fish including a blue grouper, which we fed.

During this time Kylie had twice dropped a weight from her integrated jacket. First time she did not even noticed so I dipped down 2 metres or so to get it, and pass it back to her.

Her technique of underwater navigation was also in question after having to surface to see where the exit point was; we stayed down several metres under the chop wondering what she was up to. But by this time we were only at about 4 metres getting near to reserve and ready for some soup.

We passed the intended exit point because of the current. (so much for local knowledge!) When we surfaced, there was Don and Mick waiting. Don was vigorously gesturing to Kylie to make her way to where he was standing, a far more difficult but only close exit point.

By this time the waves were 3 ft high. And the rocks were fast approaching. Kylie, Jo and Suzanne all went at once with the help of a wave onto the sloping rock. All three holding on desperately, and trying to get their fins off. I didn’t think I would be of help heading for the same point so I ducked under the next wave and finned very hard into the current to body surf the next wave up a much easier and shallower incline to 20 yards to their left. I was out of the water with fins off in only a few seconds, then I made my way over to them to help them still trying to get out.

We had all survived. Just!

After some snacks and some soup and a Valium we were ready for dive two. (OK, kidding about the Valium Paul, Mr D.O. Sir.) This was to be in Sydney Harbour National Park. In comparison it was boring, a beach entry, dead calm water. We swam out about 50 metres and dropped to the bottom. What we found was hundreds of bottles dropped in the bay by early settlers to the region. Obviously old very strange shapes and colours.

It appears that prior to modern waste disposal methods, the people near the bay used to load rubbish into a small boat, row it out a little way and dump it over the side. A historical version of fly tipping I suppose. And what was out of sight was out of mind. The bottles sank and stayed there.

We also saw some rays, a couple of cuttlefish darting backwards and forwards, colours changing, some spider shrimp, and a large ball of eel catfish which we all took pleasure in passing our gloved hand through and watching the ball re-form instantaneously.

Then we were lead into a narrow swim-through, which surfaced through a kelp bed. You would never find it if you didn’t know it was there. We were down for 45 minutes before surfacing and were glad to see the water was still calm.

On the way back to the hotel, Don offered to show us the ocean from a very picturesque cliff top observation point. The sea was wild with very large waves crashing. Glad we were not out there today. But the sharks would have been good to see.

Behind us the sun was hazy and formed a great view of the Harbour Bridge framed by monkey puzzle trees in the foreground. The day after tomorrow we will be climbing it. We returned to Darling Harbour, had a few hours rest, then went out. We sat down with a few glasses of deco-fluid and a meal and carried out an inquest of the day. We all agreed Kylie needed re-assessing. (Mentally) Next diving stop, The Great Barrier Reef. Hopefully a far less stressful affair.

Red Sea 2004 - North, Maldives,

The Scilly Isles - 2003, Red Sea 2003 - North, Red Sea 2003 - South
Scapa Flow 2002, Red Sea 2002, Weymouth 2002,
Australia, Red Sea 2001, Red Sea 2000,     
Brixham, Weymouth, Key Largo,
Red Sea 1999, Diving Down Under.