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The Tale of a 21st Century Diver on a 18th Century Adventure
| Having seen the exhibitions, watched the TV programmes, visited the ship (in 1997) and bought the tee shirt the opportunity to experience life on board the replica of Captain Cook’s ship, HM Bark Endeavour, during her second visit to London was one not to be missed. So, I signed up for duty as a shipkeeper and guide over the two weekends she was to be moored at the Royal Arsenal Pier in Woolwich. |
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My first sighting of her was as I rounded the bend by the Woolwich Ferry and caught a glimpse of her rigging. Creating a sense of excitement that was to last for the next 10 days. Walking up the gangway I was now boarding her not as a member of the public but as part of her crew for the night. Meeting other volunteers we were then shown around the ship by a member of the permanent crew who pointed out our stations and duties as guides.
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Just as we were about to go below another square rigger was sailing past us, The Grand Turk, obviously come to give us a look over. This ship was built and used for the filming of the 1st series of Hornblower on TV, but the models used for the later series were so successful she now has to find alternative work. She was greeted with shouts of "All hands on deck, stand by to repel boarders". The adventure had begun. |
Our tour took us on the same route that the public would take, starting with the forward weatherdeck, then below to the mess deck, through the officers’ and gentlemens’ quarters to the great cabin and finally emerging on the quarter deck. We had previously received our information packs and now experiencing the ship first hand the information started to make sense.
| To receive my orders for shipkeeping I reported below to the 20th Century deck. What a change, for here was a fully equipped galley with modern cookers, fridges, hot and cold running water, a crew dining area, off which were locker rooms, showers, washing machines and proper heads. This area of the ship would have originally been the hold and was now off limits to the public. Our instruction took the form of another tour this time including the pier and the engine room. (Fridge’s, toilets, engines on an 18th century square-rigger?). Finally we were shown where to sling our hammocks. (This is more like it!). I selected to put mine up in the marine’s area which has a headroom of only 4’ 6", so if I fell out it was not too far to the deck. |
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My watch was from 4.00am till 6.30am, so up till then I could explore the ship, go ashore or turn-in, whatever I pleased. By about 11.00pm the earlier hustle and bustle had died down. The crew were all ashore, except for the duty officer and topman and we had the ship to ourselves. A time to soak up the atmosphere and get to know my fellow shipkeepers.
During this time we received a visit from the River Police who wished to check the vessel out, as they were with all other river traffic, as September 11th was approaching. I finally turned in (without falling out) at around midnight but found sleep elusive. In fact I was glad to get up when my watch was called.
The watch duties required the logging of various checks taken around the ship and jetty. These included checking the mooring lines and shore equipment, the bilge water depth, freezer and fridge temperatures, the wind speed and ships boat. Any anomalies and we were to wake the duty topman.
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Sunrise was around 5.30am and to watch the lightening sky through the array of rigging on my ship was an experience that will long be remembered. For having looked after her for a night she was now definitely my ship. 6.30am, wake all hands, 7.00am breakfast of cereals, toast, orange juice and coffee. (The orange juice was to fend off any risk of scurvy). 7.30am, hose down and scrub the weather decks, vacuum! and mop the mess deck whilst the crew members gradually returned setting up the exhibition items for the public opening at 9.00am |
Those acting as guides were given their stations and we met our public. The main duties were to keep them moving and point out items of interest answering any questions they may have. Our 3 hour shift was soon over as we handed over to the next group of guides.
My second night on board involved another early morning watch but this time I made a better job of slinging my hammock and slept like a log.
| Over the next few months the Endeavour will be visiting various ports around the UK and Channel Islands culminating in a stay at Cardiff for a refit. I’m sure she will be back to London again soon and when she does I’ll sign on again. |
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To chart the progress of HM Bark Endeavour log on to its website www.barkendeavour.com.au where you can also complete a virtual tour by linking to the BBC website.
Bob Digby.
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